Wednesday, March 12, 2008

Simple Truths

Concord, Mass.
Three summers ago, I took a job with the Fund for Public Interest Research knocking on doors for the Sierra Club. In short, my duties involved: memorizing a rigorously standardized spiel about how whosever dinner I had just interrupted in Massachusetts should write me a check because oil surveyors were upsetting caribou in northern Alaska; either having the door slammed in my face or enduring a 20-minute lecture on the evils of environment-based government regulation; and repeating this process 40 times every evening for two months.

Like any other job, canvassing had its pros and cons. One pro was that it was not like any other job. While friends shuffled papers under fluorescent lights at white-collar internships, I got to hike around a different neighborhood each day under the deep, late-afternoon sky. On the con side, repeating the same speech to the same blank, polite, vaguely frightened faces dozens of times every afternoon made me feel artificial.

It wasn't that I didn't want to "save the environment." It's just the pitch was so reductive, so unbalanced, so manipulative, like a television commercial. Nothing as complex as the relationship between man and the natural world can be boiled down to a string of several well-wrought sentences. The words, their simplicity, the way they flow easily off the tongue, into the ears, and settle around the brain. It is the seductive grace with which the speech acquits itself, like a charming suitor who dazzles and then departs before betraying his baser habits, which would surely reveal themselves in marriage. But when each kind-eyed woman smiled and reached for her checkbook, I stayed silent, and soon became one of the office's most lucrative fundraisers.

One day I was canvassing a neighborhood here in Concord, my hometown. Plotting routes and systematically blanketing each road and neighborhood had made me amazed at how little of the town I had actually ever seen. Sidestreets off familiar thoroughfares had opened up into entire networks of smaller roads and cul de sacs, which were treasure troves for donation-seeking footsoldiers like me. It was early in the evening -- I remember because the sun had turned orange and slid near the treetops, causing me to lower the brim of my cap closer to my eyes. I was on a street I had never been on before. I remember how clean the lawns were, how exposed to the sunlight. The neighborhood appeared to have been built relatively recently by a developer who clear-cut a chunk of the woods, and I winced at the knowledge that any checks I collected here would bear a small stain of irony.

The house was on my left. That I am certain of. A deck-style house, I think. Two levels for sure. With a white door and a driveway to the right of the door. I remember walking down to it on a gradual slope and noticing that the gradient leveled off near the driveway. A walkway to the door. A stoop? Maybe. I cannot be sure. The one part of this memory that I know is true is that there was were narrow windows stretching the whole height of the door on either side of it, though I cannot remember whether they were flat against the front of the house or perpendicular to it, with the door set in slightly. I know there were windows because it is through the one on the right that I saw the inscription on a rectangular, wooden slab; the elusive inscription I would find myself seeking feverishly three years later.

I don't remember what it said. Not a word.

Here is what I do remember: Being rapt. Tilting my head against the glass of the window to see it more clearly once it was obvious no one was at home. Reading it all the way through, and then again. I remember the owner of the house pulling into the driveway, me introducing myself, skipping my Sierra Club spiel and asking her about the the inscription. I remember her letting me in and telling me it was recovered from an old church in Baltimore right before it burned down, I think, sometime in the 19th Century. It was a litany of advice. Simple, intuitive truths. Not prosyletized but humbly submitted, as if by a dying man, sighing the words into the wood as the walls of the church burned around him. Accessible, brief, useful, unpretentious. Serene, reassuring, permanent.

After chatting with the woman for some time, I excused myself, telling her I still had her neighbors to visit. I can't remember if she donated money. I can't even remember if I wound up asking for any.

Several years passed.

By senior year of college, the focus was the future: the great blue beyond, and what my classmates and I would do when we got there. I would see friends marching across campus in dark suits and fresh haircuts, on their way to meet a representative from this firm or that investment bank. I would see roommates working feverishly on fellowship applications. It became clear that the four years we had been given to figure out what the world is and how to integrate into it were nearly expired. I couldn't help but feel I had largely failed at this task. Rather, the more I had learned, the more I had realized I did not know -- or worse, could not know. The world, it appeared, was more complicated than I had hoped. I put off applying for jobs as long as I could.

I never completely forgot about the sun-soaked deck house with the inscription from that old Baltimore church. There were several times in those years when I thought about finding it during some trip home, but I always forgot until I was back in my dorm room in Maine. "Oh well," I would say to myself. "Maybe next time." I knew exactly where it was: down Monument Street, left on Liberty, and then it was some road on the right -- one I had never known existed before that summer. When I came home for my final school vacation several days ago, I resolved to find it.

It was late afternoon, about the time I would have been canvassing that summer, and the sun was low and fat as I drove out Monument Street past the Old North Bridge and then left on Liberty right after the Concord River. After consulting a map at home, I decided I was looking for was called Cedar Way -- a small cul de sac just past where Liberty intersects with Barnes Hill Road. But when I turned on the the small street, there was no slope, no deck house on the left with windows flanking the door. Strange, I thought. Were there any other hidden neighborhoods, any other sidestreets along that ridge? I doubled back to Monument Street and, finding nothing, turned around again and followed Barnes Hill all the way to the intersection with Lowell and Barretts Mill. There were no sidestreets, just familiar old country houses I had driven past hundreds of times.

I decided I must have misremembered the area of town where the house was, and I scoured my memory for alternatives -- areas of town that were open to late-afternoon sunlight, might have been developed relatively recently, and that I recall having canvassed that summer after freshman year. I decided to try Strawberry Hill. But the woods were too thick and they cast shadows over the roofs of each house. The only clear-cut neighborhood I found was full of McMansions, too big and ostentatious to be my humble deck house with its humble inscription.

I was irritated. This was supposed to be a quick, easy trip to satisfy a minor itch. I had never minded enough to seek out the inscription before, save for several unsuccessful Google searches, but I had always counted on it being there where I left it -- something I could always find if I really wanted to. Now that I couldn't the itch had opened up into a raw sore, and I wheeled around and sped back toward Monument Street, this time driving past Liberty and into the rolling farmland with its sprawling colonial pastures. I turned right at Doris Kearns Goodwin's house, the one with the lighthouse at the north end, on to Silver Hill Road, driving down Cressbrook and back and then left on Turning Mill, without any luck. Finding myself suddenly in Carlisle, I turned around abruptly in a blind drive and nearly got rear-ended by another car, which honked at me.

The sun had reached the tops of the trees, and I knew I wouldn't have enough light to continue my search for much longer, so I went home. The next day I used a map. If the house with the inscription wasn't off Liberty and it wasn't off Strawberry Hill and it wasn't off Monument, then it must be on the other side of Route 2, in one of the subdivisions off Sudbury Road, Powder Mill Road, Old Marlboro Road, or Old Road to Nine Acre Corner.

It was gray out, and the sky spat cold droplets on to receded plow-heaps of dirty snow that lined the roads and driveways. I started down Sudbury, figuring I'd work east to west, and hung a left on Heath's bridge road, which was nearly washed out where it dipped into the Sudbury river floodplain. The houses skulked in the shade of willows the near the river and maples farther in. There were too many trees here, and the underbrush was thick and filamentous. These were the wrong houses, the wrong neighborhoods. They were too natural, too gnarled.

I worked my way over to Powder Mill, turning off on to Plainfield and working my way impatiently down short cul de sacs and around oxbows. I passed the breezy shacks on Shore Drive near White's Pond, which were too small, and the stately mansions of Captain Miles Road, which were too large. On Anson Avenue, the houses seemed almost just right. I slowed my car and crept down the street, as though the correct house might bound off like a spooked deer if I approached too quickly. I studied the doors, looking for the tall windows that I had peered through three years earlier. And there they were, on a gray house with blue shudders and the numbers 117 nailed into the siding.

Was this the house from my memory? Could it have been gray? I remembered it as yellow, but I could easily have confused that with my memory of the sun. I didn't actually remember a color, not one I could be sure of. I had remembered a deck-style house, and this wasn't. But it was about the same size and the same rectangular shape. It was exposed. It had a clean, clearly demarcated lawn. And those windows next to the door. I coasted to a halt on the opposite side of the road, feeling suddenly nervous, as though I were picking up a date. I left the car running when I got out. Nobody appeared to be home, and I grew acutely conscious of how sketchy I must have seemed in my black coat and dark sunglasses, skulking around an empty residence on a quiet suburban street like a burglar casing a house. In this town, people called the cops over much less. I came to the door and glanced quickly through the right-side window at the facing wall.

There was no slab, no inscription. No insights. Just bricks.

On Old Marlboro Road I pulled over again, but not to look in on another house. My car had recently been in the shop due to a faulty shifting linkage, and whatever they did to fix it had caused the stereo to reset. It wouldn't turn on again unless I entered the theft code, and distracted by my quest I had barely noticed that I had been driving the whole afternoon in silence. Now this absence weighed on me, and I rifled the manual in my glove box for the code and found it. The only disc I had in the car was a mix of Death Cab for Cutie and the Kings of Convenience, and I twisted the volume knob to high as I shifted back into drive.

More streets, more houses. My enthusiasm for the quest had dulled. I was now going through motions, expecting disappointment around ever bend and down every empty street and finding it. I began to wonder if my vision of this house, which I had clung to for three years, might have been a farce; a fragmental collage of of the hundreds of similar houses on similar streets I had visited that summer. If I couldn't remember if the house was yellow or blue, how could I be sure it was a deck house, and not a ranch or a split-level? How could I be sure it was even in Concord? As if on cue, Ben Gibbard's voice rang through on the stereo: "It stung like a violent wind / that our memories depend / on a faulty camera in our minds..."

It was time to go home. As I turned off Old Marlboro road and on to the highway, I thought about that day three years ago, when I, that door-to-door virtue pitch man, stumbled on that sun-soaked house on the sloping road with the windows lining the door and the inscribed panel from an old church in Baltimore. I imagined myself transcribing the artifact's words on to the back of my donation ledger with my pen. I imagined myself writing them down in a notebook when I got home. Memorizing them. Quoting them to friends.

Those simple, untangled truths.

Tuesday, March 11, 2008

Lunch at the Crossroads

Concord, Mass.
About a mile up Elm Street from quiet neigborhoods full of multimillion-dollar homes, MCI-Concord, a medium security state prison, sits stubbornly on the outskirts of this bucolic New England hamlet like an unwanted houseguest. Watchtowers rise like ugly lighthouses from the ends of its long, gray walls, which are surrounded by a second tier of chain-link fences trimmed with menacing spirals of barbed wire, making MCI-Concord distinct from other residences in town -- except, perhaps, for its talent for insulating occupants from the outside world.

I've driven past the prison hundreds of times over my 17 years living here. Though it is located on the periphery of town, MCI-Concord sits adjacent to the Concord Rotary, a nexus of local traffic that connects a number of main roads. You can't get to Acton from Concord, for instance, without connecting to Route 2A at the rotary. While it is possible to find your way on backroads, it is easy to get lost, and chances are you'll wind up back where you started.

Across the rotary from MCI-Concord, a dirt road winds through a soggy sweep of pasture land to a small cluster of buildings and a rusty grain elevator. This complex, which straddles the line between the stark, rigid motif of the neighboring prison and the pastoral aesthetic of historic Concord, is the Northeastern Correctional Center, a sort of halfway house for inmates preparing to transition back into civil society.

Driving past NECC -- or the "Farm," as I called it growing up -- I had always thought it strange that a prison facility would also have cows, gardens, and a two-rung white fence serving as the sole barrier between convicted felons and Concord's idyllic suburbs. One can imagine my surprise, then, when I learned that the prisoners at the Farm operate a public restaurant where, five days a week, the inmates cook for, serve, and wait on paying customers from the general public.

My friend Ben, with whom I had driven past the Farm dozens of times during high school, had recently found out about the restaurant. He had visited it the previous week to report a freelance piece for the Boston Phoenix. Impressed by what he had seen and learned, Ben asked me if I wanted to go back with him and some friends for lunch.

I pulled up the dirt path, self-conscious because I was driving my father's BMW. In accordance with Ben's instructions, I was wearing khakis and brown loafers -- they don't allow jeans or sneakers -- and I left my cell phone in the car, because electronics are also banned. The ceilings inside the building were tall, and the laughter and conversation of several men wearing white, Department of Corrections jumpsuits echoed up a staircase as we relinquished our driver's licenses to a uniformed guard at the check-in kiosk. "He buying for you?" The guard asked, nodding at Ben. I said yes. "Hey, why not?" he said. "Best deal in town."

The restaurant, called the Fife and Drum (presumably an homage to Concord's colonial history), was aesthetically similar to the Farm itself: neither entirely cozy nor completely sterile. The tables and chairs were simple but functional, like in a school cafeteria, and the walls were mostly stark, except for the one nearest to the kitchen. That one was decorated with cape-style wood shingles, a sign that read, "Never trust a skinny cook," and a window looking into a managerial office, making it look like a rustic shack. The tall windows and natural light also contributed warmth, as did the fact that the Fife and Drum was well-populated. Each of the ten tables already had patrons. So after paying the $1.42 flat dining rate, the six of us split up, and Ben and I sat at the table closest to the shack/office with two men -- each aged about 50, I guessed, give or take. We were easily the youngest customers in the place by several decades.

The menu was simple, but it covered all three courses: Split pea soup and garden salad (with our choice of balsamic vinagrette, French, or Bleu Cheese dressing) to start. Then chicken or tuna fish sandwiches (with fries), or roast beef with peas and mashed potatoes. Finally, vanilla almond cake and pina colada squares for dessert. We were supposed to write our orders on post-it notes labeled with numbers corresponding to our table positions for the waiters to take to the cooks. As a vegetarian, there wasn't much there for me, but I elected not to ask my tattooed, jumpsuit-clad waiter if I could see the non-meat options. Instead, I wrote "Mashed potatoes and peas (no roast beef)" on my order slip. When our waiter came and took the slip I averted my eyes, fearful that I might anger him and the rest of the cooking crew by foisting my special needs on them. To my relief, he took the paper without hesitation.

When the conversation between the two men at our table reached a hiatus, we did introductions. One of them, Bill, told us he was a chaplain over at MCI-Concord. Bill was a stocky, rotund man with round-frame glasses and a look of perpetual concern befitting his profession. The other introduced himself as Dennis, a taller, bespectacled pastor from Nashua, N.H., who worked part-time at Concord and other regional correctional facilities.

It was from them that I learned MCI-Concord was not a typical medium-security prison; it was the nexus of the state's entire prison system. Every criminal sentenced in Massachusetts, they explained, passes through here for "classification" before being either kept in Concord or shipped off to some stronger cage, such as the maximum-security slammer in Walpole. It is, like the traffic circle adjacent to it, a crossroads.

Bill and Dennis were used to dealing with inmates who were at crossroads -- spiritual ones, mostly, but practical ones as well. Ben told them he had written a story about the Fife and Drum for the Phoenix, they became excited and started talking about how important the restaurant is to helping inmates develop the interactive and job-based skills that they will need when they get out of the prison system. This restaurant, they said, serves as a connector between life on the inside and life on the outside. Thrown into the world without this sort of direction, the ex-cons tend to get lost, resort to backroads, and wind up right back where they started.

As I nodded, I saw our waiter wheeling around the corner. His hitched-up sleeve revealed a muscular forearm adorned with arabesque ink patterns, and at the end of that forearm his hand grasped a small piece of paper: my order slip. I instantly regretted by decision to request a meatless entree. Surely, that was the issue here. I had confused the cooks. No -- I had angered them. I turned in my chair and faced the waiter.

"Peas and potatoes?" he asked.

"Yes," I said.

"Do you want gravy on those? It has meat in it too."

"Oh. Um, no. No thank you."

The waiter nodded politely and returned to the kitchen.